Puerto Rico's mild, mild west - Though it's best known for bustling San Juan, this island's west side is relaxing and full of hidden gems.

Puerto Rico's mild, mild west - Though it's best known for bustling San Juan, this island's west side is relaxing and full of hidden gems.
by Margaret Ramirez
Copyright © 2010, Chicago Tribune
January 10, 2010
http://www.chicagotribune.com/travel/sc-trav-0105-puerto-rico-20100108,0,2302886.story


MAYAGUEZ, Puerto Rico - — Lying on a lounge chair in the warm waters of a secluded beach in Guanica, my body became partly submerged by the crystal clear Caribbean Sea.

As lush, green mountains slept in the background and baby waves splashed my toes, I could feel the stress of yesterday washing away.

Having traveled to Puerto Rico several times since my childhood, I am always amazed by the rich diversity of its landscape, from coral-studded reefs to El Yunque rain forest; from the Camuy River caves to its three bioluminescent bays; from the leatherback turtle-nesting beaches of Culebra to whale-watching in Rincon.

But spending a vacation on the western part of this island revealed a new kind of wonderful. Though Puerto Rico is best known for bustling San Juan and its glitzy night life, the west involves lying back and discovering hidden places.

We picked three towns that gave glimpses of the island's Taino (native), African-American and Spanish history, and we saw how those cultures forged one people.

Guanica

Our trip started in the southwest seaside town of Guanica, a two-hour drive from San Juan's Luis Munoz Marin International Airport through the rolling mountains of the Cordillera Central and into an immense subtropical dry forest.

Most of the ride served up breathtaking scenery on Highway 52. The highway provided rich green vistas with splashes of red flamboyan trees, then transitioned into country roads with vendors selling sweet quenepa fruit, lechon (pork) sandwiches and cold drinks.

Passing through a forest, we came to gorgeous Cana Gorda Beach and the neighboring Copamarina Beach Resort, where we stayed. On the slender private beach that fronts the Copamarina, relaxation is the first rule with king-size beach beds planted in the sand.

Copamarina is considered a luxury resort with a spa, two restaurants and a dive shop that offers kayaking and snorkeling. At the same time, the place manages to maintain a rustic country feel because of its setting in mangroves and forest.

Sonia Quinones, a Copamarina manager, said the resort remains relatively unknown among tourists from the United States, with most guests coming from Puerto Rico and Europe. Many come to explore the dozens of isolated beaches and coves around Guanica.

For land lovers, hikers and bird watchers, there is the Guanica State Forest, a United Nations-designated International Biosphere Reserve that contains more than 700 types of plants and trees and is home to half of Puerto Rico's bird species.

Unlike Puerto Rico's north coast with its wet forests, the landscape of Guanica's forest is arid and rocky, with cactus and desert vegetation. Steep mountains block rain clouds coming in on the tropical wind, causing rain to evaporate before reaching the south coast. As a result, Guanica boasts the best weather on the island.

La Parguera

Nearby La Parguera makes up for what Guanica lacks in night life. Just a 30-minute drive, it is a former fishing village that transformed into a popular vacation spot with dozens of inns, guesthouses, restaurants and bars.

On summer nights and weekends, people from as far as San Juan drive down to grab seafood or mofongo, the Puerto Rican delicacy of mashed plantains smothered in garlic.

Others come to La Parguera Pier for the scenery and sea breeze, sitting along the dock or walking by the many vendors.

The main attraction is the phosphorescent bay, where objects in the water emit a magical glow. Various boats offer night tours to see the unique phenomenon, caused by billions of microorganisms.

La Parguera was one of the best nights of our trip. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at Aguazul, a popular new restaurant near the pier that melds Puerto Rican flavors with international cuisine.

After dinner, we made our way to the dock for an evening stroll and found a big outdoor party. Soon there was dancing, all under a full moon.

Mayaguez

The last stop on our western adventure was beautiful Mayaguez, Puerto Rico's third-largest city, whose newest claim to fame is being home to the family of Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor.

At first glance, Mayaguez seems unimpressive: McDonald's, Applebee's, Walgreens and Wal-Mart. But a visit to the heart of the city finds a charming Spanish colonial town with houses painted in picture-book pastels. At the center is the tree-lined Plaza Colon, honoring Christopher Columbus. Behind the Columbus statue is the stunning Mayaguez Cathedral, Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria.

Mayaguez is undergoing a needed restoration as it prepares to host the Caribbean and Central American Games in July.

Soon enough we learned that no trip to Mayaguez is complete without eating the famed Brazo gitano, a delicious jelly roll best eaten with hot coffee or tea. Brazo gitano means gypsy's arm and is named for its long thick armlike shape. It comes in several flavors, including strawberry, pineapple, carrot and chocolate.

To end our stay, we slept at the Howard Johnson Inn, a restored monastery across from the cathedral.

With three brazos in my luggage, I closed my eyes and dreamed of my next trip to the west.

maramirez@tribune.com

If you go

Getting there: Either fly into San Juan and rent a car, or schedule a connecting flight into Ponce, Mayaguez or Aguadilla.

Hotels: Copamarina Beach Resort & Spa in Guanica, a unique luxury beach resort. (800-468-4553; www.copamarina.com)

MaryLee's By the Sea in Guanica, for those doing their own cooking. (maryleesbythesea.com)

Howard Johnson Inn, a converted monastery. (hojo.com)

Mayaguez Resort & Casino, for those splurging in Mayaguez. (888-689-3030, mayaguezresort.com)

Where to eat: Aguazul in La Parguera, creative Puerto Rican cuisine accented with international flavors. (787-899-8014, aguazulpr.com )